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It was a live broadcast on Zoom and also pushed to RUclips. Because it was live there is two and half minutes on the recording prior to the actual event starting. If you fast forward to 2:40, that is when it starts. We will try to delete the first 2 minutes if RUclips will let us. Thanks.

Indoor coil has/needs a TXV for cooling mode. Do NOT remove the ICP fan coil's TXV. The outdoor unit has EXVs for heating mode like all heat pumps.

Thx for catching that missing minute of audio. We will re-post.

Yes, it was installed in this video as a dual-fuel system with a gas furnace.

Not trying to sound rude, but did you watch the video? It covers wiring to engage furnace during defrost, it covers balance point settings, and Ryan states "dual-fuel" at multiple points in the video.

ERVs do not cool buildings, nor do they dehumidify them. The only thing they can do to help with heating and cooling is use your exhaust air to pre-cool and pre-dehumidify your ventilation air coming. The amount of ventilation air you need to bring in... and hence how large of an ERV you need... is based on your local building code. Where we are based a 1,000 ft2 single family home with 2-3 bedrooms would require only 45 CFM of fresh air so you would need the smallest ERV you can find. You are allowed to bring in extra outside air if you want to further improve ventilation, but it will equate to more compressor based cooling and dehumidification needing to maintain comfort than a smaller ERV.

Make sure you are wiring to the green plug and not to the thermostat wiring strip. Possible issues are the indoor unit circuit board, the stat, or the wiring. The wiring is the easiest to troubleshoot. Remove the outdoor unit wiring and see if it works without that connected. If not, take the thermostat to the indoor unit and wire them to together with a brand new 3 foot wire cable. You can also use your electrical meter to test DC voltages on Dx+ and Dx-. When trying to communicate, you should see low voltages (say 0.5 to 5 vdc) and they should be constantly fluctuating.

Who is the "he" in the "he was advised by tech" statement?

Without knowing much details about the application, it would seem unlikely that increasing the speed of anything would reduce its sound levels. "Rattling" generally implies metal vibrating against metal and can be caused by loose screws, unsupported lengths of metal, or other items. It would be best to find EXACTLY what is rattling and better secure that specific component.

Ecobee only has outputs to control 1 and 2 stage equipment. Ecobee can not directly handle the modulation of cooling, heating, or fan... nor does it even know what modulation is. We are not familiar with Mr. Cool specifically, but some variable speed compressor heat pumps handle their own modulation. You just give them a Y1 signal from the stat to indicate a call for cooling and then they ramp themselves based on a pressure transducer. Other models are only modulated by their own special wall thermostat. Losing features or efficiency depends on the specific equipment.

The pressure switches will be normally closed and when the refrigerant pressure is too high or too low, they will open and turn the unit off.

​@@TECTubefilms Just to clarify - so testing the switches while they are in the unit cannot tell you if they are bad or not, just that they are open, correct? The other thing you would have to rule out is that your pressure is not high/low. If it is normal pressure, then an open switch would indicate a bad switch, correct?

@@mcgu8114 Yes, if you can measure the pressure at the switch and it is in a normal range compared to the trigger point of the pressure switch but the switch is open anyway, then the switch itself is the issue. That statement holds true for all pressure switches for all fluids.

Do NOT connect the ABCD wires to an ecobee PEK or even to a thermostat. The ABCD wires are for data communication where-as a regular thermostat uses switches. If you want to wire a thermostat instead of an Infinity wall control, you have to use R, C, G, W1, W2, Y1, Y2 terminals instead of ABCD.

True. Our geography is historically gas furnaces so we often used brown for W2 or for Common well before any of us heard of a heat pump... so the heat pump generally gets whatever wire is left over in the stat cable for us. LOL

Use your electrical meter to diagnose what is blocking the signal between your thermostat and the contactor. If the contactor works and the stat works, it is something in-between.

So, oddly enough, I went to the outside unit to check voltages at the board with my DMM. As I checked power to Common at the T1 C C O connector, the Relay Coil energized and the AC has been running fine ever since. Not sure what happened to make it do that? Thanks for your reply!!!

Any luck getting this resolved? It sounds very similar if not exactly the same as to what I’m experiencing.

Technically it is not a rule for 90 degree max SAT, but rather 15 above space temp. Most spaces seem to average a 72 degree heating setpoint so that comes to 87 max supply air and because most of us like to think about even numbers, we end up with 90. In ASHRAE 62.1-2019 look at section 6.2.1.2 for Zone Distribution Effectiveness. The Ez calculation uses 0.8 multiplier for "Ceiling supply of warm air 15°F (8°C) or more above space temperature and ceiling return," which mathematically increases your minimum OA ventilation by 25% from what it should be.

@@TECTubefilms now i get it, i really need to dig more Ashrae 62.1, Thank You so much! More power to you guys at TECTUBE! 💓

That's hilarious

If the moisture is being introduced by outside air coming into the building via the ventilation system, then you would want an ERV. If the moisture is due to indoor sources (pool, people, fountains, etc) then you would want a HRV.

@@TECTubefilms Thank you. Sounds like I need an HRV.

Yes you can almost always go to a large line for any A/C or HP. Check the manual for the charge adjustment because you will need to weigh-in more refrigerant.

No, it is never normal for limit switches to trip. Which specific limit switches? High temp for furnace? Roll-out? Refrigerant pressure?

@@TECTubefilms It’s an electric air handler with heat strips. There are 4 elements controlled by 2 2 pole limit switches. Only on of them trips shutting off two elements. Im not sure when it started doing that (maybe always) because we don’t normally use it (heat with wood). I noticed it by accident when I stopped the wood stove for cleaning. Im guessing even if the static pressure is 0.18 before the filter and 0.22 after it probably needs more air flow. I disconnected one of the 4 elements for now and seems to run ok like that.

@@GotrekGurninsson 0.18 before the filter and 0.22 after the filter just tells you the static pressure drop across the filter is 0.04 which is very low and indicates the filter is probably low MERV also. If you are interested in knowing the total external static pressure so you can compare that to the airflow tables of your air handler then you need the static measurement upstream of the filter and downstread of the air handler. In either case, think about which fan speed (we assume your air handler has different speeds for different modes) it is on when you remeasured the static pressure during maximum heat mode. Look to make sure you have the fan speeds set to provide the correct heat rise. Measure the temperature instead the duct and also pull out the limit switch and measure the temperature in that spot. If any of this sounds like it is beyond your HVAC and electrical skills, hire a professional. Good luck in your troubleshooting.

That would be a good visual. In the meantime we will add two items: 1) ERVs are AHRI tested and the accidential recirc from return air back into the supply air is represented by the Exhaust Air Transfer Ratio (EATR) and it is often well under a half percent. Most mechanical codes require this number to be under either 5 or 10% depending on the class of exaust air on the project. 2) Locating the exhaust fan in the draw-thru position relative to the wheel minimizes the EATR.

Heil has its own zoning system. It works exactly the same as Carrier/Bryant but it is not interchangeable with Carrier/Bryant. The Ion main stat is needed to communicate with the Heil Ion furnace. A Carrier Infinity or a Bryant Evolution stat will not communicate to an Ion furnace.

Thanks for shooting your Roadstar mod video in a vertical format on your camera even though the bike is horizontal. And because of the unsteady camera work, we were unable to use your video to enhance our own bike and wasted our time watching it. ruclips.net/video/AXBqv6sY4-w/видео.htmlsi=_26Sc2Lli9VbcjjO

Yes this is an error. Either he measured 38 and verbally said 30 OR he measured 30 and looked at the wrong row on the chart. (Bill wears his classes more now 6 years later LOL)

Will your particular system run all of the electric heat stages if the defrost from the heat pump energizes W2 instead of W1? Or does your specific indoor air handler need to receive W1 before W2?

@@TECTubefilms that would've been nice, but no. I actually have three inputs (W1 = 5kw, W2 = 10kw and W3 = 20kw), however, for W3 to work W2 must be active and for W2, W1 must be active. From factory W1 to W2 is jumped and W2 to W3 is jumped, so I reverted to that, so I can get the whole 20kw on defrost, but had to get rid of my Aux Staging unfortunately, only W1 from ecobee is now connected. It's a Lennox CBA38MV